Capri
Early in the morning we take the boat
from Sorrento to Capri. Just like yesterday the view is not clear. We see dark
clouds growing in the sky above Sorrento. We have to wait a long time before
our boat leaves, you know how it goes: hurry, hurry, the woman that sold us
our tickets warns us the boat can leave any minute, so we run but once we are
on the boat nothing happens any more. Except for the clouds, that look more
threatening every time we look up.
I
certainly don't hope it will start to rain again exactly when we are on a boat
without shelter? I look at Jac, who has a bad influence on rain, but he looks
very neutral. No, the clouds grow darker and darker but it doesn't start to
rain yet and at last our boat starts for Capri. We sail close to the coast and
pass our camping, hidden in a orchard on a steep slope, we just see the top
of our caravan. On sea a little wind starts, very refreshing after days and
nights of temperatures above 30 degrees. The island of Capri suddenly seems
very close, almost a hallucination the way its steep rocks raise abruptly from
the water. The sky above Capri is clear blue, no clouds to be seen. It is not
difficult to imagine some sirens on one of the smaller rocks.
For me not the sirens lure, but Capri itself. Capri is
an incredible beautiful island. The harbor is full of tourists and I am disappointed
when we find that
the
'Grotta Azzurra' is not open because of the heavy sea. Other caves can be visited,
but this blue cave must be the most beautiful cave. Jac and I don't understand
the problem, the sea seems totally quiet to our eyes. But OK, now we have much
more time to visit the island and afterwards we certainly don't regret that!
Except maybe for Jac the climbing from the harbor up to the central city of
Capri - we could have taken a tourist tram or, even worse, an open taxi, but
what can be nicer than following the small stairs and finding our own way up?
We arrive in the Piazza Umberto, feeling very hot. A friendly waiter guesses
all our wishes and supplies us with seats in the shadow, cold water and an enormous
coupe granita lemon - smashed ice cubes mixed with lemon. Delicious! The only
drawback was we had to pay 15 dollars, even compared to other touristic-Italian-square-prices
a bit much!
We
follow a small street out of the center - just broad enough to enable two donkeys
or fat tourists to pass each other, stumbling on the round street stones. On
both sides of the street walls are made of loosely stacked stones, front doors
are surrounded by flowers in pots, intricately formed metal gates close entrances
to flower gardens, blue and pink ceramic name plates are fixed to the walls,
next to niches with a small statue of Maria. I'm just a little taller than the
walls and on the other side I see disorderly gardens with rocking chairs, ivy-grown
white houses, small vine yards, far ahead the blue sea and even further the
utmost end of the Sorrento peninsula.
It
gets more quiet when we walk on. The center of Capri is crowded with tourists,
but only some tourist walk around, most stay close to the center. Notwithstanding
the tourists the character of the island is unchanged, it is not difficult to
imagine the island hundreds of years ago. The view becomes wider and after a
sharp curve in the road we stand in front of a terrace of a restaurant, from
which the view on the sea is perfect. We find a free table in the shade and
enjoy the wide view, it is almost as if we are sitting on a high deck on a
boat,
the sea seems to be very close, as if we can take a dive from here! We enjoy
a local wine, which combines well with the home made ravioli, filled with goat
cheese - also home made.
We
take our time to relax on the terrace. Afterwards we follow the path further
to the 'Arco Naturale', a naturally formed enormous arch curved hole in the
rock. Through the arch we can see the sea, far below us, difficult to see how
far below us, the tiny dimensions of the boats below give some indication. There
are a lot of boats close to the coast, rounding the island, mooring in one of
the bays, visiting
the
caves. Far away the sea looks azure blue, close to the rocks the water colors
turquoise and directly below us we can easily see the bottom through the crystal
clear very light blue water. We catch some wind here, high on the rocks sitting
on a stone bench in the shadow of a tree. The wind carries the fragrance of
pine trees and flowers.
While we walk back to the harbor, passing the cloister
and popular shopping streets, I imagine I'm living here. OK, maybe not in August,
but spring and autumn will be beautiful. Autumn in Holland can also be beautiful,
but this year it drizzles for weeks and I can't help remembering Capri.
Don't do that to often, or you start to think about moving for serious !
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